I am certain that I must be forgetting something obvious. I am not seeing the contextual link to "edit view" as I would expect. I don't remember if this is something that has to be turned on or if for some reason this feature is not available in BackdropCMS (and I forgot that fact). I seem to recall it being there before, but I could be thinking of D7 projects. 

Accepted answer

Looks like a bug:
https://github.com/backdrop/backdrop-issues/issues/2690

Also, I realized that contextual "configure views" link is available on blocks. It's just not showing up on views pages. Hopefully, we can get this fixed soon.

Comments

On my page views running 1.12.x-dev there is a contextual Configure View link in the very upper right corner of the page. This is in the Bootstrap Lite theme.

Based upon the discussion on Github, I think the problem is specific to the Basis theme. I've not yet had time to test it in other themes. 

My experience with the problem was using the Basis theme.